Part 1: Draped and Enstooled

The institution of chieftaincy is central to several Ghanaian cultures. Almost every traditional area has a chief who is viewed as the custodian of culture, heritage, and pride. As such, chiefs are accorded a lot of respect and honor in all aspects of life, especially in dress.

After being kept in confinement for a period prior to being substantiated as chief of a locality, the designated candidate or chief-to-be is eventually outdoored (brought out into the public sphere), lavishly draped and enstooled. Since special attention is given to the cloth and stool of the chief in southern Ghana, the first part of the exhibition project, REGALIA: Adornment of Ghanaian Chieftaincy, presents samples of Kente cloth and stools that are commonly associated with southern chieftaincies from the Akan, Ewe, and Ga people.

Cloth
The well-known Kente cloth is indigenous to both the Akan and Ewe, but it is used throughout the country, cutting across ethnic demarcations. The Kente cloth is arguably the number one national unifier, as many Ghanaians employ it as a symbol of national identity.

Nature of the Cloth
Kente is made by sewing together narrow strips of handwoven cotton or silk yarn, piece by piece, until a standard size is achieved. Kente cloth usually comes in two main sizes: female size and male size. However, it is possible to come across special (customized) sizes as well.

Materials
In the past, much more silk was used in weaving Kente, but due to the scarcity of the material, a lot of cotton and rayon yarn is currently used.

Kinds of Kente Cloth
Cloths may be classified according to the localities from which they originate. It is relatively easy to differentiate between Asante (Akan) and Ewe Kente. However, certain patterns are woven in almost all parts of the country.

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Nubuke Foundation, Accra 2024